5 Split Shot Tips to Help You Catch More Fish
Split shot is one of the most underrated tools in fly fishing. While it might not be as sexy as a flashy streamer or a perfectly tied dry fly, a well-placed split shot can be the difference between getting skunked and getting a bite. It’s all about getting your fly down into the strike zone – where the fish are actually feeding.
These small lead (or non-toxic) weights help sink your fly into the water column when you’re fishing subsurface. They’re especially useful in faster water, deeper runs, or when fish are hugging the bottom due to conditions like high sun, cold water, or pressure from other anglers.
But it’s not just about crimping some weight on your leader and calling it a day. Figuring out the right placement, size, and even when not to use it is a skill itself that develops over time.
In this post, we’ll go over some of the best tips I’ve heard to fish with split shot that makes your fly fishing more effective, rather than just dragging it around.
What is Split Shot?
Split shot is small, round weight made of lead or non-toxic materials like tin or tungsten, designed to clamp onto your leader or tippet. It’s been a staple in fishing for decades, not just in fly fishing, but across all forms—because sometimes, you just need your bait (or fly) to get down fast.
In fly fishing, split shot is most commonly used in nymphing setups to help your flies sink quickly into the feeding zone. It’s especially helpful in fast water, deep pools, or when you’re trying to reach bottom-feeding fish that won’t come up to meet a drifting bug.
Split shot comes in a range of sizes—typically numbered/lettered with smaller numbers meaning larger shot (e.g., size 1 is bigger than size 6). Some are soft and reusable with wings for easy removal; others are more streamlined and better for rough conditions where you don’t want them slipping or moving.
You can buy them in containers that hold multiple sizes, which is useful for adjusting weight on the fly. Sometimes you’ll need just a bit of weight, other times you’ll need a small boulder to get your flies down to the right depths. Carry a bunch of different sizes!
I like the multi-packs, but have found certain sizes the most helpful. I carry a multi-pack container along with full sized AB, BB, and size 4 split shot. Those are the sizes I use the most often, so I carry a bunch of extras in my pack.
Check out more on or Split Shot 101: When, Where, and How to Use it Effectively
Use Split Shot 18-24 Inches from Your Fly
One of the biggest mistakes anglers make with split shot is putting it too close to the fly. If your shot is just an inch or two above your fly, it restricts the drift and makes the whole rig look unnatural. It’s basically like dragging a rock through the water with a fly tied to it—fish notice that and do not like it.
Placing your split shot about 18 to 24 inches above your fly allows the fly to drift more freely and naturally while still sinking into the strike zone. Think of the shot as a tractor pulling your fly down, but giving it enough leash to dance around like the real thing.
When I first started fly fishing, I had a guide who would put split shot a full 24 inches above the first fly. I thought this looked ridiculous honestly, seemed way too far away to have any impact. But sure enough, we caught fish. From then on, I always put split shot a little higher than I initially would think.
There are exceptions, of course. If you’re fishing super fast pocket water or need immediate sink, you might bring it closer. But as a general rule of thumb, start with that 18–24 inch range and adjust based on how your rig feels and what the current is doing.
Use the Smallest Shot You Can
When it comes to split shot, more isn’t always better. In fact, using the smallest amount of weight that still gets the job done is usually the move. Overweighting your rig can lead to snags, awkward drifts, and flies that look like they’re being dragged behind a bowling ball.
Using just enough shot to get your fly down into the strike zone-without pinning it to the bottom-creates a more natural presentation and helps you feel the subtleties of the drift. This takes some experimentation. Figuring out just the right amount of split shot is a Goldilocks situation!
Smaller shot also disturbs the water less, which is especially important when you’re fishing clear, shallow, or slow-moving streams where fish can spook easily.
Start light, and if you’re not ticking bottom occasionally, go up a size or add another piece. The idea is to adjust gradually. You’ll get a feel for the sweet spot over time, where your fly is just grazing the bottom without constantly hanging up.
When fishing deeper runs, I usually start with a 4 or a BB if the current is moving quickly and adjust accordingly. But if it’s a shallow run, I will go with a 1 or no shot at all. The smaller shot through the skinny stuff really does make a difference.
Also, smaller shot tends to cast better, especially with lighter rods or longer leaders. Big shot can helicopter through the air and tangle your rig midcast—a headache that will drive you crazy!
Tie a Knot Below Your Split Shot
One of the most frustrating things when fishing with split shot is watching it slide down your tippet and rest right on top of your fly. A simple fix? Tie your tippet knot right where you’re going to put your split shot.
This knot creates a little “speed bump” that keeps your shot from sliding toward the fly. It also helps absorb a bit of the pressure when you’re casting or when the shot hits rocks, reducing the chance of weakening or damaging your tippet.
So take your preferred knot (I like either Uni-to-Uni or a Triple Surgeon) and tie on your 18-24 inches of 3x-5x tippet. Above that knot, add your split shot. With this method, there’s no chance that your shot will slip down. I’ve sworn by this method for years and it is much more effective and practical than trying to crimp your split shot on extra tight with a pair of pliers.
Don’t Use Split Shot (If You Don’t Have To)
Here’s the thing: while split shot is incredibly useful, it’s not always necessary. In fact, there are plenty of situations where you’re better off skipping it entirely.
Modern fly design gives us a ton of options—tungsten beadheads, lead wraps, weighted hooks—that can all help your flies sink without the added bulk or drag of split shot. These integrated weights often give a cleaner, more natural presentation and fewer tangles on the cast.
Split shot can also spook fish, especially in clear or slow water. When conditions call for subtlety—like sight-fishing to pressured trout or casting to spooky smallmouth in skinny water—ditch the shot and go with a well-weighted fly or a longer leader to help your line cut through the surface tension.
I avoid split shot as much as I can. I usually first rely on weighted flies or longer drifts and will only put on shot if I must. Casting is much easier and I have full confidence that my flies are drifting very naturally.
Plus, fewer knots and fewer moving parts on your rig means fewer failure points. That’s especially nice when you’re trying to keep things simple or are handing gear off to a beginner.
That said, when you need to get down deep, fast, and your flies alone won’t cut it? Split shot still earns its place. Just know when to reach for it—and when to leave it in the pack.
Keep Your Split Shot in Easy Reach
It might sound simple, but having your split shot organized and accessible can make a big difference on the water. Changing weights frequently is part of good nymphing—and if your shot is buried in the bottom of your pack or loose in a ziplock, odds are you’ll skip the adjustment and just keep fishing the wrong depth.
Instead, keep your split shot in your pocket where you can reach it at a moment’s notice. I like the kind with rotating compartments for different sizes, so I can quickly grab a BB or size 4 without digging around. As you experiment with different weights, you’ll need it very accessible or (trust me) you won’t do it at all. Keep it somewhere easy and you’ll save yourself a lot of frustration.
Bottom line: the more convenient your shot setup, the more likely you are to make the on-the-fly tweaks that put you in the strike zone—and the more fish you’ll catch because of it.
Conclusion
Split shot will not win any style points in fly fishing, but it gets the job done—and that’s what counts. When fish hug the bottom and ignore everything you throw at them, crimping on a small piece of metal can turn your fly into exactly what they’re looking for.
It’s not glamorous. It’s not elegant. But when you learn how to use it right—how much, how far, how small, when not to—split shot becomes less of a last resort and more of a secret weapon.
Like everything in fly fishing, it takes a little trial and error. You’ll snag bottom. You’ll helicopter your rig into a mess. Heck, you might even swear it off. And then one day you’ll add just the right amount in just the right spot and watch your indicator twitch like a lie detector. Game on.
So don’t be afraid to get gritty. Mess with it. Adjust it. You’ll figure it out along the way, it just takes a little experimentation!
One Comment