So you’ve just made the best choice of your life and have decided to get into fly fishing. Maybe you saw “A River Runs Through It,” have that one buddy that can’t shut up about it, or maybe you’re looking for a new challenge in the world of fishing. Whatever the case may be, you have taken the plunge into fly fishing and want to understand all the different parts of your fly fishing setup. 

Fly fishing setups are meant to do the same thing as any other fishing setup- cast lures in order to catch fish. How you do that though changes substantially with a fly and the gear you use can is vastly different.

Fly fishing gear can be daunting and confusing for the uninitiated. This guide will take you through the basics of your gear as you begin your journey into fly fishing. Plus, some tips on what to get if you’re in the market for your first setup.

Walk into any fly fishing shop and you’ll see these sold separately or as part of a starter kit with all the necessities. Understanding each component to your setup is important in order to maximize your time out on the water and can help set you up for your journey of fly fishing gear.

Rod

Fly rods are your tool to casting your fly to your target and are by far the sexiest element of your setup. Contrary to spinning/casting rods, fly rods are meant to throw line instead of the lure/fly itself. Flies are simply to light to be casted on traditional tackle. They’re generally longer and whippier than your traditional casting or spinning rods in order to cast your line properly and efficiently.

Fly rods are broken down and identified by three main attributes: Length, Weight, and Action. Most fly rods are single-handed, though two-handed rods are used as specialty techniques like spey casting. Most fly rods are able to be broken down into 4 pieces for travel and storage purposes.

Choosing which rod is best for you depends on several factors, mainly what fish you are targeting and what size fly you are fishing. But first, let’s get an understanding of the main components of the fly rod

Length

By far the most common fly rod length is 9 feet. This length is the most versatile and allows the angler to fish multiple techniques. Rods are also commonly made in sizes ranging from 8 and half to 10 feet long for specific purposes. For those beginning fly fishing, its best to stick with a standard 9 footer.

The standard 9 footer will fit most fishing scenarios. Different rod lengths are very helpful for specific techniques or styles. Shorter rods help with accuracy and can be helpful where fishing quarters are tight like a bushy mountain stream, or where accuracy is paramount when sight fishing or fishing at structure along the banks. Longer rods can be helpful if you need more power, are tight lining or Euro-nymphing, or simply need some extra reach when mending your fly line. 

Weight

The next important attribute of the fly rod is the weight. This is not necessarily the physical weight of the rod itself, but rather the weight of the fly line the rod was designed to cast. Generally speaking, rods perform their best when casting the specified line weight and it’s best to match your rod with the line. You can certainly get away with throwing a 6 weight fly line on a 5 weight rod, but you may not be maximizing its performance.

Smaller weight rods are meant to cast small flies for smaller fish, while bigger rods are meant for bigger flies and bigger fish. Most common rod sizes range from 3 weights up to 12 weights but can go higher or lower in specialty cases. The best all-around rod weight when beginning is either a 4, 5, or 6 weight rod.

Written on the rod, usually near the handle, you’ll see 3 or 4 numbers marking the description of the rod. You’ll also see these numbers often when you’re on your third straight hour scouring the internet looking at new rods. Typically these are signifying the weight/length, then followed by the pieces of the rod, which in most cases is 4. For example, the G. Loomis IMX-Pro has the markings 690-4, signifying that the rod is a 6 weight, 9-footer that can be broken in to 4 pieces. Most the time, a clearer explanation is written near the numbers for simplicity. 

Action

Another important attribute to the fly rod is the action. This is essentially where the rod bends during the cast and how quickly the rod “rebounds,” or returns to form. This has a significant impact on how the rod casts and can be very helpful when fishing certain techniques.

Generally speaking, slow action rods bend right above the handle, medium or moderate rods in the middle of the rod, and fast action rods bend towards the tip. Slow action rods are very effective at throwing small, delicate dry flies with very little splash while fast action rods are excellent at generating power to throw larger patterns or cutting your fly through the wind.

The action of the rod isn’t always explicitly written on the rod like the length and weight, rather certain rod brands or rods in a manufacturer’s lineup are created with different actions. For example, the Sage Ignitor is known to be an ultra-fast rod meant to throw big flies in windy conditions, while the Sage Trout LL is a much slower action rod meant for delicate presentations of dry flies. 

Reel

The next important piece of gear in your setup is your reel. Depending on what species of fish you’re hunting, the reel’s importance ranges from simply holding your fly line to actually helping stop the fish. If you’re fishing for small trout or panfish, your reel’s main use will be holding the fly line but if you’re fishing for bigger fish that go on runs like steelhead or saltwater fish, your reel will help slow the fish down. 

Materials

Fly reels are generally made from three different materials: plastic, cast aluminum, and machined aluminum. What your fly reel is made of is certainly one of the driving forces of cost and durability. 

Plastic

Reels made from plastic are great for beginner anglers or for fishing for small fish. They typically are not as durable nor do they have powerful drag systems. However, if you are in the market for an affordable reel and perhaps do not fish very consistently, plastic reels can be the way to go. 

Cast Aluminum

Fly reels made from cast aluminum offer a step up in drag quality and durability. They are made when aluminum is poured into a mold resembling all the functional parts of the reel and are significantly stronger than plastic reels.

Cast aluminum reels are slightly heavier than their machined aluminum counterparts, but still offer great quality at reasonable prices. Cast aluminum reels are applicable to most (if not all) freshwater ventures but may corrode or break down if used in saltwater or fighting big fish with regularity.

Machined Aluminum

Machined aluminum reels are the premium fly fishing reel material. They are made from solid chunks of aluminum and crafted down into a functioning reel. They offer the highest quality in durability, drag strength, and eye appeal. 

Though these reels often come with a hefty price tag, they can be worth the investment when you hook into the fish of a lifetime and can’t afford to have your reel fail on you. They also make a treasured heirloom that will last many years fighting many fish. 

Size

Fly reel sizes are pretty straightforward- they’re the description of the size of fly line the reel is designed to hold along with the backing. Most reels are capable of holding a couple different sizes, which is while you’ll see reels with 4/5 or 7/8 markings, noting that the reel is meant to hold either 4 or 5 weight lines, or either 7 or 8 weight lines in those examples. 

While not vitally important, it is good to match the reel to your fly line and rod for balance and aesthetics. In a pinch, you could fill you 4/5 reel with a 3 weight line, though you won’t likely be able to fill a 4/5 weight line with an 8 or 9 weight line, simply because the line is too thick and the reel will overflow. Match the reel with the fly line and rod weights and you’ll be good to go.

Arbor

The arbor, or diameter of the center of the reel where the backing is attached, is another aspect of the fly reel that can be important. Reels generally come in standard, mid-arbor, and large arbor. Most reels made today are either mid-arbor or large arbor, the standard size has become less and less prevalent though you see them in many click-and-pawl reels.

Larger arbors allow for much faster line pickup when reeling while standard or mid-arbor reels can hold more backing. Depending on what you’re fishing for, having a large arbor can be beneficial but not necessary. Most fishing applications would be well suited with a mid-arbor size reel.

Essentially, the larger the arbor, the more fly line you pickup with each turn of the handle. This can be helpful when fishing for large fish that go on powerful runs, though not necessary when fishing for small trout or panfish.

Drag

The drag, or braking system of the reel, is another key element. Your drag system helps slow down the fish you just caught. Reels are broken down into either disc-drag or click-and-pawl types. The vast majority of reels today are disc-drags while specialty click-and-pawl reels can be a fun variation for the adventurous angler. 

You’ll also hear that some drags are “sealed.” Sealed drags mean that the drag systems are covered/encased from the elements, mainly water. These reels can be very important in protecting your reel from harsh saltwater, increasing its durability and long term performance. 

Disc-Drag

Disc-drag reels are composed of a mechanical system very similar to car brakes. The discs in the reel apply pressure to each other in order to slow the reel down when line is being taken off. The amount of pressure/drag can be adjusted and should be appropriate to the type of fish and size of the tippet you’re using. 

Most modern reels are very finely tuned and are able to apply very consistent pressure. You’ll be able to feel how “smooth” the drag is when either pulling the line off the reel or reeling backwards. Having a smooth, powerful drag is vital when fishing for powerfully running fish (saltwater species, large trout) as this will apply the right amount of pressure throughout the fight to help slow the fish down. High-end saltwater reels are designed to apply more than 20 lbs of pressure for these types of scenarios.

Having a smooth drag is also important for freshwater applications. While most these fish don’t go on the same types of runs as their saltwater cousins do, the smoothness of the drag will help protect very light, delicate tippets. You’ll be thankful you invested in a quality reel when that trout of a lifetime goes on an unexpectedly vivacious run on 5x tippet. 

Click-and-Pawl

Click-and-pawl reels appeal to the minimalist angler and are very simple in nature. These reels do not have the same type of drag system as disc-drag reels and essentially don’t have a drag system at all. This style of reel adds another element to fishing, as your hands/palms become the stopping force of the fly line and requires significantly more feel and finesse. Click-and-pawl reels are for the slightly more adventurous angler, or the angler fishing for smaller fish where having a high-end disc drag system is not quite as important. 

Fly Line

Ask most experienced fly anglers and they’ll say that having a quality fly line is the most important and often overlooked feature of a fly fishing setup. Cheap fly lines break down easily and simply do not cast correctly, severely impacting your ability to fish effectively. When you buy your first setup, be sure to invest in a quality fly line!

There are several types of fly fishing lines, each with certain applications. In general, there are floating lines, intermediate lines, sink tip lines, and full sinking lines, each used to target different parts of the water column. Some are more versatile than others but each has its time and place when searching for fish on the fly. 

There are also several different tapers (where the fly line gets thicker or thinner) of fly line that can be specified for different fishing styles. Some rods cast different tapers better as well. To keep things simple, most fly line tapers are weight-forward and this can get you through the majority of your fishing techniques, especially starting out.

Fly lines are typically 80 to 90 feet long, more than enough length for the average angler. However, because fish don’t like being hooked and might go on considerable runs after eating your fly, every reel should be supplied with backing. This is a very strong narrow rope-like material (similar to braided fishing line) that is tied to the arbor of the reel then to the beginning of your fly line. Depending on the size of the reel you have, it’s typically filled with 100-200 yards of backing. This also helps fill your reel up, which in turn helps with line pickup, and can be vital for when you hook into a fish that quickly and fiercely swims into the next zip code.

Types of Fly Lines

Check out more in Fly Lines Explained: A Beginner’s Guide

Floating

Floating fly lines do what they say- float on top of the surface. While they’re used for fishing top water flies like dry flies and poppers, they are also used in nymphing techniques. You can also use floating lines for subsurface streamer patterns. As long as you’re not fishing 10+ feet water or need to get very deep in the water column, floating lines are the way to go.

Floating lines are very versatile and can be used in the majority of fishing scenarios. While there are times where floating lines are not the appropriate line to be using, they are fully capable of getting your fly where it needs to be in most fishing scenarios.

Intermediate

Intermediate fly lines allow you to fish just under the surface of the water. Intermediate lines sink very slowly (about 1 to 1.5 inches per second) and can allow subsurface streamers to be fished under the water, but not too deep. These lines can be very helpful if you need to get your fly under the water quickly (but not too quickly), especially if you need to avoid snagging in weed beds or any other underwater structure.

There are certain times and places for intermediate fly lines, though a floating line can get reach the same effect in most ways. If you are honed in and wanting to maximize the effectiveness of your pattern, an intermediate line is the way to go.

Sink Tip

Sink tips are also conveniently named. Sink tip lines have the tip portion (the last 10-15 feet) made of a sinking material while the remaining portion of the line is floating. This allows your fly and first part of your fly line to sink down into the water column quickly without the entire fly line sinking to the bottom.

These fly lines are great for shallow water streamer fishing and similar to intermediate lines, they can get your fly under the water quickly and effectively, but not too deep. While some anglers say that the floating line portion causes the fly to swim unnaturally towards the surface, sink tip lines are used extensively in the streamer world. A lot of anglers also say that sink tip lines can also make casting more effective as the floating portion of the line allows for casting without needing to get your entire line out of the water.

Full Sinking

Knowing how the other types of fly lines function and how their named, it’s no surprise that full sinking lines do what they say: the entire fly line sinks down into the water. Instead of just a portion of the line sinking, the entire line sinks, allowing you to get very deep into the water column.

Full sinking lines are great when you need to get way down deep. You can even fish full sinking lines in shallow water with a fast retrieve, though most applications of these lines are used in deeper water situations. 

Casting full sinking lines can be tough, especially when wading. Full sinking lines are used most often out of a boat, where the spare fly line isn’t encumbered by water on the deck of the boat. 

You’ll see different types of sink rates, and even variable sink rates on sinking fly line boxes. This simply marks how fast the fly line sinks, anywhere from 2 inches per second up to 8 inches per second. The main takeaway is that the entire line of full sinking lines sink underwater, sometimes at varying speeds.

Leader

Check out more in The Beginner’s Guide to Fly Fishing Leaders

Your leader is your connection from fly line to your fly. Leaders serve several important mechanisms in fly fishing. First, the clear material is less visible to the fish and less likely to spook them. Secondly and of equal importance, they are vital in transferring energy from the fly line to your fly for proper casting. They are tapered down from a thicker material (the butt section) down to a specified breaking strength that allows this process to happen efficiently. That involves complicated physics which we don’t need to worry about, the main message is that leaders are often overlooked in their importance in the fly fishing world and having the correct leader length and taper helps you catch more fish.

Fly leaders are generally made of two different types of materials: Monofilament and fluorocarbon. Each has their own specific uses.

Monofilament is a floating material and has the notable attribute of stretch. Mono is used as an all-around material with specific uses in dry fly fishing in order to keep the line on top of the water without pulling the fly underneath. 

Fluorocarbon is a sinking material with less stretch and higher abrasion resistance. It’s also able to retain its breaking strength with a smaller diameter. Fluoro is used in subsurface techniques and is noted to be less visible to the fish. Some debate on the importance of fluoro in the fishing world and given its price tag, some choose to stick with good ol’ monofilament. 

Leaders are often sold in pre-tapered packages that are simple to use and come along with a tippet portion attached. Leaders can also be built manually for the more DIY angler and can save you a few bucks in the process. Leaders are typically 9 feet long, sometimes longer for spooky fish, sometimes shorter when fishing streamers. 

When you buy prepackaged leaders, the size of the tippet is marked on the package. Prepackaged leaders include pre-tapered leaders and 1-2 feet of tippet seamlessly added to the end. 

Tippet

Check out more in The Beginner’s Guide to Fly Fishing Tippet

The last piece of your fly fishing setup is your tippet. Tippet is the last portion of your leader that is connected to your fly. Similar to leaders, tippets come in either mono or fluorocarbon. Tippets are usually the last 1-3 feet of your leader.

Tippets are important because they are the connection to your fly, and their size and material can determine catching and landing fish. Tippet can also save you a ton of money. When you cut and retie your fly over time, it eats away at your leader and instead of replacing the entire system, you simply tie on more tippet. 

Choosing tippet size is another part of the puzzle. If you fish too large a tippet, either you won’t be able to tie a knot through the hook eye, or it may spook the fish. Too small a tippet can lead to break offs.

Tippet sizes are marked by either the “X” system or in pound breaking strength, noting the diameter of the material. The smallest practical tippet you’ll use most often is 5x for dry flies and nymphs, though in clear water or spooky fish situations you might go all the way to 7x (in the X system, the higher the number, the smaller the diameter). Conversely, if you are fishing big streamers or for toothy critters, you may bump that to 20 pound and up tippet. 

Generally the rule of thumb (especially in trout fishing) is to divide the hook size by 3 to get the right tippet size. So if you’re fishing a size 14 nymph or dry fly, your tippet should be 4x or 5x. If you’re fishing a size 6 streamer, your tippet should be 2x or 1x. From personal experience, switching out your tippet can change everything- fish won’t touch 4x but bump it down to 5x and they’ll feast.

Conclusion

At their core, fly fishing setups are fishing rods. To those new to fly fishing, the setup and gear can be confusing. There are speciality tools designed for specific situations and as you gain experience, you’ll be able to apply the different nuances and functions of your gear based on what you’re fishing for and how you like to fish. When starting out, the majority of fishing can be done with a straightforward setup.

Fly fishing gear is one of the most gripping aspects of the sport. Some choose to be “gear guys” and need every fancy tool out there while others choose to keep it simple. You’ll find out which type of angler you are with time.

Understanding the different elements of your setup not only help maximize your fishing experience but also can set you into down the fascinating rabbit hole of fishing gear. 

If looking for a ready-to-fish combo, check out The Best Fly Fishing Combos for Beginners.