If you’re a DIY angler seeking an unforgettable fly fishing adventure, Xcalak, Mexico, should be at the top of your list. Nestled on the southern tip of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, this quiet fishing village offers endless opportunities to chase permit, bonefish, tarpon, and more in crystal-clear waters.

My recent trip was a deep dive into what makes Xcalak a dream destination for the self-sufficient angler. Here’s your guide to making it happen!

Where is Xcalak?

Tucked away on the southernmost tip of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Xcalak (pronounced Ish-ka-lak) is a remote fishing village known for its abundant fly fishing opportunities. Just north of the Belizean border, this gem offers pristine flats, lush mangroves, and lots of fish- making it a prime destination for anglers with a fly rod. 

Xcalak has a rich history dating back to the ancient Maya civilization, which used the area as a coastal outpost for fishing and trade. In the late 19th century, Xcalak became a strategic port town for Mexico, serving as a hub for maritime trade and military presence due to its proximity to Belize. By the early 20th century, the village grew as a fishing and coconut farming community, but hurricanes, geographic isolation, and limited infrastructure have disrupted its development.

Today, Xcalak remains a small, tight-knit community with a population of around 400 residents. Its remote location and focus on sustainable tourism have helped preserve its natural beauty, making it an escape for anglers, snorkelers, and those seeking unspoiled Caribbean waters.

During a recent trip to Xcalak, I was impressed by the calmness and tranquility of the small town. Despite limited resources and seclusion from larger cities, Xcalak felt alive. All the locals seemed to be happy and positive, embracing a laid-back and uncomplicated way of life that was both refreshing and inspiring.

Getting to Xcalak

Reaching Xcalak requires a bit of effort, but the journey is part of the adventure- and well worth it. Given its remote location, I wouldn’t say getting there is “easy” but with some planning and thought, the trip is relatively seamless. 

Cancun to Tulum

The first part of the trip includes the 80 mile (128 km) trek from Cancun to Tulum. This is by far the busiest section of the route, as you trip is lined with resorts, gas stations, and pedestrians. It’s actually pretty hectic through these areas with busses, cars, and motorcycles zooming around but with some focus and good tunes, was not an issue at all.

I would recommend taking a pit stop in Tulum. There are some awesome restaurants that don’t require getting off the main road to get to. It’s also probably the last time you’ll have cell reception for a while so take a minute and send out any texts or emails you might need. 

Tulum is also a great spot to pick up groceries for your trip. The Chedraui (similar to Wal-Mart or Target) there is a great spot to stock up on eggs, peanut butter/jelly, or anything else you might need for the trip. There is no real grocery store in Xcalak, so plan ahead!

Tulum to Felipe Carrillo Puerto

The next stretch of the trip was a straight shot. From Tulum to Felipe Carrillo Puerto (60 miles, 96 km), it’s nothing but a straight, well paved road with plenty of chances to stop for gas and have a bathroom break. I was actually surprised by how well maintained the road was. We went in expecting pretty rural infrastructure once we got outside of Tulum, but it was pretty smooth sailing. There are definitely potholes and topes (speedbumps) to be aware of, though as long as you’re focused they shouldn’t be an issue. 

Felipe Carrillo is also the last place you can stop confidently for gas. The closer you get to Xcalak, the less opportunities there are to fuel up. We actually learned the hard way on our next stop!

Felipe Carrillo Puerto to Limones

This section of the drive (40 miles, 63 km) was pretty smooth, but you definitely need to be aware of more potholes and topes. They occasionally feel like they pop out of nowhere and can be seriously damaging to your car and nerves. Be aware that there aren’t any signs warning you of the topes. One helpful pattern that I noticed is that once you see people walking around the sides of the road, there’s generally going to be topes around.

Limones also has a gas station but it’s not always in service. Power outages and limited infrastructure of the region make it difficult to have confidence that the gas station there will be functional. Would definitely recommend filling up in Felipe Carrillo Puerto to be sure that you’ll have enough gas to complete the journey.

Limones to Mahahual

From Limones to Mahahual (40 miles, 63 km), it really starts to feel like you’re on an adventure. Not a ton going on here other than isolated roads, potholes, and the occasional tope.

Mahahual has a gas station that unfortunately was not in service when we arrived. This is the last official gas station before getting to Xcalak but the sporadic power outages in the region make it tough to confidently say that you can get gas here. 

Mahahual’s gas station is very important to the area, so despite the challenges with the power grid, they do their best to make sure the station is up and running. Most of the time, the outages are fixed in a few hours (apparently) but to avoid the headache, would make sure that you have at least half a tank of gas before heading down the last stretch to Xcalak.

Mahahual to Xcalak

If you didn’t feel like you were on an adventure the first 4 hours of the trip, you will during this 40 mile (62 km) stretch. The road is paved but full of potholes and is often surrounded by overhanging trees and bushes. The two lanes are technically enough to fit two cars going opposite directions, but can be a tight squeeze. Be prepared to pull off to the side when seeing an approaching car, or if there’s a more confident driver wanting to pass around you.

But after this last stretch, you’re in Xcalak! This is when the paved road ends and you’ll be off-roading it for the rest of your stay. Drive slow and methodically on these bumpy roads- it’ll either damage your car or make you nauseous (or both) if you drive too fast.

Other Tips on Getting to Xcalak

• Rent a car that will be able to handle the sometimes bumpy terrain. 
• Consider flying into Tulum and renting a car to cut down 1.5 hours of sometimes hectic travel.
  • You may also want to spend a night in Tulum either on the way down or the way back. It’s a pretty vibrant, unique city that could be a trip in itself.
• Print out copies (both English and Spanish) of any car rental insurance policies you may have. 
• ALWAYS be aware of potholes and topes. Sometimes they come out of nowhere!
• If driving yourself, drive as much as you can during the daylight hours. It makes you so much more aware of your surroundings and driving at night can add stress to an already hectic adventure. 
• Bring pesos everywhere you go. Some places (especially once you get to Xcalak) only accept pesos (no dollars or credit cards) and it’s best to use this as your main currency.
  • There are plenty of exchanges around Tulum. There’s one conveniently located next to the Chedraui if you are stopping for groceries. 
• Download off-line maps of the area. The cell service in the region is spotty, but downloading maps on your phone will keep you on track.
  • Download Google Maps
  • Download Apple Maps

Xcalak Lodging

Xcalak offers several well-known all-inclusive lodges, like Xcalak on the Fly and The XFlats, which handle everything for you, from accommodations to guided fishing. However, if you’re focusing on a DIY adventure, I highly recommend the Acocote Inn. Located a bit further up the dirt road, this self-sustaining inn provides everything you need for a comfortable and independent stay, while still immersing you in the charm and simplicity of Xcalak life. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the area at your own pace.

Fly Fishing Xcalak

Once you’re in Xcalak, the real fun begins and you will have the opportunity to fish for each species of the “Grand Slam”- bonefish, permit, and tarpon. 

The shallow flats surrounding Xcalak are teeming with life. There are ample bonefish populations on the flats and tarpon are ready to eat in the mangroves and ocean-side troughs. The permit fishing here is legendary, with anglers coming from around the world for a shot at these elusive fish.

As a note, there are no fly shops anywhere near Xcalak and guides generally do not have their own gear. Everything is on you as the angler, so be prepared!

Fly Rods and Reels to Bring to Xcalak

Since there are a variety of species to target on the fly in Xcalak, you’ll want to bring a selection of rods to suit different conditions and fish. I recommend an 8 weight, 9 weight, and a 10 weight with high quality drag systems.

The 8 weight is your go-to rod for bonefish and can handle smaller permit and baby tarpon if needed. If you’ve got an arsenal of rods, a 7 weight dedicated to bonefish is an excellent choice for lighter conditions.

A 9 weight is ideal for permit and baby tarpon, offering a balance of power and finesse. Its slightly heavier build helps turn over larger flies and cut through moderate winds often encountered on the flats. It also has enough backbone to put the breaks on these hard fighting fish. 

The 10 weight might seem heavy, but it becomes indispensable on windy days or when casting to larger tarpon. There are also large jack crevalle and barracuda in these waters, so having a rod capable of throwing larger flies is a nice addition to your lineup. 

As far as reels go, having a high quality drag system is very important for these fish. Bonefish and permit will go on fierce runs, so being prepared to stop those fish with your drag system is essential. Invest in a quality reel when making this trip, you don’t want to make it all the way down there only to have your gear fail you!

Having this range of rods and reels ensures you’re well-prepared for whatever Xcalak’s waters throw your way.

Flies for Xcalak

While there are many species to target in Xcalak, flies don’t need to be all that complicated.

Essentially what it comes down to is having shrimp, crab, and baitfish flies in a variety of sizes and weights.

Recommended Shrimp Flies (Sizes 4-8)

• Gotchas
• Spawning Shrimp
• Squimps
• Crazy Charlie
• Mantis Shrimp
• Bonefish Bitters

Stick with natural colors here and make sure they are on the lighter side for bonefish- the shallow waters and sometimes spooky nature of bonefish make heavy flies unnecessary. I’d still have a couple larger, heavier shrimp patterns (around size 4) if you have confidence throwing those at permit or tarpon.

I would say that most of your shrimp flies should be small and lightweight as you’ll be throwing these most of the time in the skinny waters for bonefish. 

Recommended Crab Flies (Sizes 2-6)

Some guides and anglers swear by having yellow eyes on their crab patterns. With how finicky permit can be, this little nuance can be impactful (according to some). Who knows why!

Recommended Baitfish Flies (2/0-2)

Leaders and Tippet for Xcalak

Bonefish leaders should be in the 9-10 foot range, tapered down to 12 lb tippet. Sometimes you can get away with heavier 16 lb, but in general 12 lb is the sweet spot. If they’re extra spooky, drop down to 10.

Permit leaders are in the 16 lb range. Using longer leaders in the 10-12 foot range is also highly recommended. You want as much separation from your fly line to your fly as you can manage with these picky fish.

Keep it simple with tarpon leaders. Straight 6-8 foot pieces of 40 lb tippet and you’re good to go.

Other Fly Fishing Tips for Xcalak

• Check out our useful resources for Saltwater Fly Fishing:
  • Beginner’s Guide to Saltwater Fly Fishing
  • Beginner’s Guide to Fly Fishing for Bonefish
  • Top 5 Bonefish Tips You Need to Know
  • Fly Fishing Xcalak Tips: Gear, Flies, and Strategy
• It is likely going to be windy! Wind is just part of the game in saltwater fishing and Xcalak is no different.
• Bring all the gear you think you will need and then some. Xcalak is remote and there won’t be any opportunities to stock up on flies, leader, or tippet. Bring an extra rod if you can as you will be out of luck if yours breaks.
  • Mexican law allows 4 rods and 4 reels per person when traveling through the country. I don’t know how they enforce this, but if you bring every single rod in your arsenal and you get searched, you may face additional fees.
• Be sure to pick up your Mexican Fishing License
  • In the “Fishing Spot” drop down, select Quintana Roo

Xcalak DIY Fishing

When fishing Xcalak for the first time, I would highly recommend hiring a guide for at least part of your stay. Hiring a guide is hugely beneficial because of their in-depth knowledge of the local flats, mangroves, and fish behavior. Guides also improve your chances of success by helping with spotting fish, selecting flies, and perfecting your presentation. Additionally, you will meet some awesome people!

I cannot recommend Andres from Osprey Tours highly enough. Knowledgeable and friendly, Andres will put you on fish and you’ll enjoy every minute of your time on the boat or walking the flats.

When it comes to DIY fishing, Xcalak offers miles of pristine, accessible flats where you can wade for bonefish and permit—often right from the public beaches. There’s something truly special about waking up, grabbing your gear, and stepping outside to find yourself casting to tailing fish or scanning for nervous water just feet from shore. The beaches stretch far, offering plenty of opportunities to explore, walk, and fish all day long. With so much ground to cover, you could easily build an entire trip around this incredible experience.

Eating in Xcalak

Eating in Xcalak is an experience in itself. The local restaurants may not look like much—often small, simple, and unassuming—but the food they serve is incredible. Tacos, empanadas, and other homemade dishes are the stars of the show, made with local ingredients and plenty of care. Two standout options are Silvia’s and Palapas, both offering delicious traditional Mexican food. Don’t let the modest exteriors fool you; these hidden gems deliver some of the most delicious meals you’ll find anywhere.

Conclusion

Xcalak is a paradise for the DIY fly angler, offering world-class fishing with or without a guide. With its untouched beauty, abundant fish species, and accessible spots, this destination allows you to truly immerse yourself.

By planning carefully and following the tips provided, you’ll be able to navigate Xcalak’s waters on your own, creating memories that will last a lifetime. Get ready for an adventure that will challenge your skills while rewarding you with some of the best fly fishing the world has to offer.