Bonefish

Master the Flats: 5 Bonefish Tips You Need to Know

Fly fishing for bonefish is a mix of highs and lows. Some days, it feels almost effortless—the fish are visible, cooperative, and eagerly take your fly. Other days, it can be surprisingly tough, with spooky fish, challenging conditions, and refusals that leave you scratching your head. That’s when these helpful tips come in.

So what can we do when the fish are being finicky, or we just can’t seem to find them, let alone get bit? In this post, we’ll break down 5 helpful pointers for fly fishing for bonefish that will help you keep that reel screaming with running bonefish on your next flats trip. 

Need a refresher? Check out our Beginner’s Guide to Bonefish.

Look for Bonefish Further Away Than You Think

Finding bonefish on the flats is a skill and tips like this can go a long way. Discerning the differences between sticks, rocks, sand, and actual swimming fish is the biggest difference in catching fish and going on a long, action-less walk on the beach.

Well obviously, right? You can’t catch fish that you can’t see. What new bonefish anglers don’t see is that you need to be looking much further away from themselves than you realize to give yourself the best chance at spotting fish.

It’s very easy to want to stare straight down, maybe 15-30 feet away from yourself when you’re first looking for bonefish. Heck, when you’re first starting out you aren’t even sure what to be looking for. But in reality, you’re cutting yourself short. Sure, you’ll find bonefish this way, but you’ll definitely be missing out on many bonefish swimming around you.

Start with Green, then work your way back to the boat

While it can be uncomfortable at first, start by looking at 60-90 feet away, possibly even further. Look for shadows, tails, nervous water, or any other signs of life- just do it far away from you. You may be thinking this is unreasonably far, but you can and will train your eyes to be able to spot fish at a distance. If you see nothing, move back towards the boat or your feet, they may have popped out of nowhere!

Looking further than you think can be tricky when you first start out, but you adapt quickly. You’ll be able to spot bonefish from say 120 feet, stalk them, trick them with your fly, take a cool picture with them, then send them off to grow bigger**.

Two Strikes and You’re Out

Bonefish can be picky, and a refusal is their way of saying, “Nahhh, not today.” If a fish turns away from your fly twice, it’s time to switch things up. 

Sometimes, all it takes is a minor color change or size adjustment to seal the deal. On a recent trip, one of my go-to flies (a small pink and white Gotcha) got the attention of a school of feeding bonefish, but just as several fish were pouncing on it, fighting for a quick meal, they all scattered. To my surprise, this happened again a few minutes later.

In my mind, pink was off the menu that day. I then switched to a more neutral tan and white Gotcha of the same size, made my casts, and caught several bones that did not hesitate hammering the fly. Albeit a subtle change, but one that made all the difference that day.

So what elements of a fly can you change when you’re getting refusals? Let’s take a quick look at the biggest variables of your fly and how they can impact your hook up rates.

Size

Bonefish can be selective about the size of their prey. The size of your fly should mimic the natural forage in the area. A fly that’s too large may spook them, while a fly that’s too small might go unnoticed.

Gotcha Flies
Gotchas in Several Different Sizes

How to Adjust:

  • Use smaller flies (size 6-8) in shallow or heavily pressured waters.
  • Opt for larger flies (size 2-4) when targeting bigger bonefish or fishing deeper flats.

Weight

The weight of your fly determines how quickly it sinks and how quietly it lands. A well-weighted fly ensures it gets into the strike zone without alarming the fish.

How to Adjust:

  • Use bead chain eyes for shallow flats or spooky fish.
  • Switch to lead dumbbell eyes for deeper water or windy conditions.
  • Use unweighted flies for ultra-shallow waters where a soft landing is critical.

Adjusting the weight of the fly is one of the best tips for catching more bonefish. Most of the time, bonefish are opportunistic feeders and as long as a fly is landed softly and gets to the right depth, they’ll take a bite. But they will spook all of the time if the fly is too heavy and makes a loud noise.

Color

Bonefish rely on sight to locate prey, and the color of your fly should blend with the flat’s bottom or stand out subtly, depending on conditions.

How to Adjust:

  • For sandy flats, use tan, cream, or light pink flies.
  • On grassy flats, choose olive or darker patterns.
  • In murky water, opt for brighter or flashier flies like orange or pink to increase visibility.

Profile

The silhouette of your fly can influence whether a bonefish sees it as prey. Adjusting the profile allows you to better mimic shrimp, crabs, or baitfish.

How to Adjust:

  • For a shrimp imitation, choose a slimmer, elongated profile.
  • For a crab pattern, opt for a wider, rounder profile with legs and body mass.

Pick Your Feet Up when Chasing Bonefish

As you search for bonefish on the flats, your movements in the water can help you avoid detection. When stalking bonefish, walk slowly through the water to prevent large splashes and spooking nearby fish. 

However, there is a time where you need to channel your inner Usain Bolt and sprint after fish. When this happens, do your best to pick up your feet and pump your knees as you chase after bonefish in the distance. This helps you run faster and actually creates less noise than sloshing through the water.

On one of my first bonefish trips, we spotted a school moving across the flat about 120 feet away. Despite my best efforts at distance casting, I do not have that in the bag. We needed to get closer. 

I was surprised to see our guide pick up his knees and lift his feet out of the water like he was running a 40 yard dash. He moved through the water much quieter and faster than me. I started to pick up my knees, feet out of water and when we reached the fish, they were not spooked.

Picking up your feet while rushing to bonefish is one of the more helpful tips I’ve received. You move faster, quieter, and get a tiny bit of exercise while doing it. I haven’t sloshed through the water since!

Get Bonefish to See Your Fly, then Get it Away from Them

The art of bonefishing lies in the presentation. Your goal is to place the fly where the bonefish will notice it but not feel threatened. Once the fish locks on, strip the fly away to mimic a fleeing prey. This triggers their predatory instincts and often leads to an aggressive take.

Beginner bonefisherman often slow down their presentations as the fish begins to chase. Makes sense right? Slow down your strips so the fish has a chance to chow down an easy meal. 

In reality, this stoping the action actually turns the fish off. No baitfish, shrimp, or crab in the wild has ever slowed itself down so it can be eaten. Rather, they continue to flee, desperately trying to get away from a predator. We need to do the same with our flies. 

Bonefish
Bonefish that kept chasing down a fly

When you get a bonefish locked in on your fly, get it away from them using strips that mimic the natural patterns of the fly you are using. The strip can differ depending on what type of fly you use, so let’s take a look at how that changes with a shrimp, a crab, or a baitfish fly:

Shrimp Fly

Shrimp are quick and agile, often darting in short bursts to escape predators. Your stripping technique should mimic these movements.

Squimp Fly
Squimp Fly

Strip Style for Shrimp

  • Use short, sharp strips about 4–6 inches long.
  • Vary your cadence: try two or three quick strips followed by a brief pause to simulate a fleeing shrimp that’s stopping to rest.
  • Keep the fly moving when the bonefish is closing in but slow it slightly as the fish gets close, allowing it to eat.

The erratic motion and pauses (but not stopping fully) closely mimic how a shrimp flees, which triggers a bonefish’s predatory instincts. Shrimp often “kick up” puffs of sand, so your fly moving subtly near the bottom adds realism.

Crab Fly

Crabs tend to scuttle along the bottom, often moving side to side or staying still to hide. Bonefish typically see crabs as an easier, slower-moving meal.

Crab Flies

Strip Style for Crabs

  • Use slow, short strips of 2–3 inches to imitate a crab’s scuttle.
  • Pause frequently to let the fly sit still momentarily, as if the crab is burying itself in the sand.
  • If the bonefish gets close but doesn’t eat, a single sharp strip can imitate a crab trying to escape, enticing a strike.

Crabs don’t move continuously, and their defensive behavior (freezing or burying themselves) signals to the bonefish that they are prey. Mimicking this natural stillness combined with a quick escape motion can provoke an aggressive reaction.

Baitfish Fly

Baitfish rely on speed and erratic movement to evade predators. When using a baitfish pattern, your stripping should create a sense of urgency and mimic a fish trying to flee.

Strip Style for Baitfish

  • Use long, fast strips of 12–18 inches.
  • Maintain a steady cadence to simulate a baitfish swimming away or fleeing in a straight line.
  • Occasionally pause briefly between strips to mimic a baitfish hesitating or changing direction.

Bonefish are opportunistic predators that chase fleeing baitfish. The fast, straight retrieval mimics a fish trying to escape. The occasional pause or change in speed can make your fly appear more lifelike and unpredictable, increasing the chance of a strike.

Know Where the Wind Is

When you’re bonefishing, wind is gonna be a factor. Either light breezes or strong gusts, the wind always seems to be blowing. It’s just part of the game. Knowing what direction and how strong the wind is going is a crucial factor in accurate casting.

Adjusting your Cast in the Wind

For example, you see a school of bones cruising from right to left- but the wind is blowing from left to right. You know that the wind will take your fly even further to the right as you lay down. Knowing this, you lead the fish an extra 5 or so feet and instead of the wind blowing your fly on top of the school (and likely spooking them), it lands softly right in position to be pounced on.

Similarly, a big pair of bonefish could be coming towards you, along with a strong surge of wind in your face. You know you’re gonna have to give your cast some extra juice to get through the wind. You shoot your shot with some extra oomph and instead of your fly landing helplessly 5 feet in front of you, you’re in position to get eaten.

Casting with the wind blowing can be difficult and knowing how to adjust your tactics can be very helpful. Here’s a quick reference on how to change tactics with certain types of wind:

Wind at Your Back

The wind helps carry your fly line, allowing for longer casts with less effort. Position yourself so the wind is blowing over your casting shoulder. This reduces the chance of the line or fly hitting your body and keeps your cast trajectory low and efficient.

Wind in Your Face

Wind in your face can actually provide more control over the fly’s landing. Move to a position where you can cast at a slight angle to the wind, rather than directly into it. Use shorter, more deliberate casts with tight loops to help you cut through the gusts.

With wind in your face, make sure to get the line taught as quickly as you can once the fly lands. Depending on how strong the wind is, it can cause your line to fold onto itself, creating a loopy mess. But with the soft presentation, you still may have a shot at getting bit.

Crosswind

With proper adjustments, crosswinds can aid certain casting techniques like sidearm or backhand casts. Shift your stance so the wind blows away from your body (right-handed anglers should cast with wind from the left). This will allow your forward cast to be taken with the wind as opposed to fighting against it.

If the wind is strong toward your casting arm, mix in a back cast! Sometimes you gotta get a cast out there quickly and back cast is the only option. This will prevent the hook from hitting you in the back, head, or butt, which can be a day-saver.

With any crosswind, make sure you adjust your target sights appropriately. The wind is going to take your fly with it, so you may have to aim an extra 5 or 10 feet to compensate.

Check out this helpful video from Orvis about casting into the wind:

Despite all this knowledge, bonefish tips like this can only go so far. You gotta get out there and practice!

Conclusion

Fly fishing for bonefish is a mix of skill, strategy, and laughing at your own mistakes. You’ll miss some shots, scare a few fish, and maybe end up with a sunburn—but those moments make the successes even sweeter.

The more time you spend on the flats, the more you’ll sharpen your skills and figure out what works for you. So, keep practicing, enjoy the process, and remember: even when the fish win, you’ve still got a great story to tell. And who knows? That one big bonefish might just be waiting for your next perfect cast.

What are your best bonefish tips?

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