Saltwater fly fishing is a blast, but let’s be honest – it can really chew through your fly stash. Between toothy fish, rough conditions, and just plain losing flies to the water, it’s easy to burn through flies very quickly. That’s where tying your own comes in handy. 

The good news? Not every saltwater fly has to be complicated or time-consuming to make.

In this post, we’re diving into some super easy saltwater fly patterns that still get the job done. Whether you’re after bonefish, snook, permit, redfish, or tarpon, these simple flies are effective, quick to tie, and great for building up your fly box without all the hassle. 

Let’s get tying!

Lefty’s Deceiver

Lefty’s Deceiver is one of the most iconic and widely-used fly patterns in the history of fly fishing, created by legendary angler Lefty Kreh in the 1950s. Designed for saltwater fishing, this baitfish fly has become a staple for anglers targeting salty species like striped bass, tarpon, snook, and even freshwater species like bass and pike. Its long, flowing profile mimics baitfish such as mullet, herring, and shad, making it an effective attractor in a variety of conditions.

The Deceiver’s unique design allows it to maintain a lifelike motion in the water, even when stripped aggressively. Lefty’s goal was to create a fly that wouldn’t foul during casting or fishing, and the result is a pattern that is not only practical but also visually appealing. Its durability, effectiveness, and simplicity have solidified it as a go-to fly for anglers worldwide.

Tying Lefty’s Deceiver

Tying Lefty’s Deceiver is straightforward, making it a great pattern for tiers of all skill levels. The Deceiver can be tied in any variety of colors and flashiness, making the tying process unique to the tier.

The key is achieving the correct proportions to mimic baitfish accurately. The design features a tail made from saddle hackles, a body wrapped with tinsel or chenille, and a wing of bucktail that creates a realistic baitfish silhouette.

This fly’s flexibility means tiers can experiment with a range of colors and materials to match local forage or create eye-catching attractor patterns.

Lefty’s Deceiver Recipe

Hook: 4X long shank hook, sizes 2 to 3/0 (adjust size depending on target species)

Thread: White or colored 140 or 210 denier thread. 

Tail: Four to six saddle hackles, matched in pairs (white or desired color)

Flash: Flashabou or Krystal Flash, added between the hackles to the desired level

Body: Mylar tinsel or chenille, color to match or contrast tail

Wing: Bucktail (typically white on bottom with darker colors like blue, olive, or black on top)

Collar: Sparse bucktail tied around the hook

Eyes: Painted-on, stick-on, or molded eyes (optional)

Head: Tied thread head, finished with head cement or resin for durability

Tying Steps for Lefty’s Deceiver

1. Attach the Thread: Start wrapping your thread at the hook shank and build a smooth base.
2. Tie the Tail: Select four to six saddle hackles and pair them by size. Tie them in at the bend of the hook, ensuring the feathers splay outward for a fuller profile. Add a few strands of Flashabou or Krystal Flash on each side.
3. Wrap the Body: Attach the Mylar tinsel or chenille at the base of the tail and wrap it forward evenly to cover the shank. Secure it near the hook eye.
4. Add the Wing: Tie in a small bunch of white bucktail at the base of the hook. On top of the white, layer darker bucktail in your chosen color. The bucktail should extend about to about three-quarters of the tail. 
5. Create the Collar: Wrap a sparse layer of bucktail around the hook just behind the eye to complete the baitfish silhouette.
   1. You can add a bunch to the top, then the bottom to create an even head.
6. Finish the Head: Build a neat thread head at the front of the hook. Apply head cement or resin to make it durable.
7. Optional Eyes: Attach stick-on eyes with epoxy or paint them onto the head for added realism.

Extra Tips for Lefty’s Deceiver

• Keep Proportions in Mind: As you are tying on the materials, make sure the tail and bucktail wings are appropriate to the hook size.
  • This process takes a little bit of feel and guestimation, but you can easily look at any Deceiver on the internet and get an understanding of what the proportions should be.
• Chartreuse over White is the most common color patterning, but feel free to go wild with any color combination you want.
  • As with other baitfish flies, the darker color should be on top and the lighter on the bottom.
• Less is More: As you tie in the bucktail, use about half a pencil’s worth of material. Bucktail expands and quivers in the water and too much bunched together can not only look funky, but also affect the movement.

Clouser Minnow

The Clouser Minnow is the “Wooly Bugger of the Salt”, mimicking any baitfish that swims in the sea. It has a similar profile to Lefty’s Deceiver but is smaller and even easier to tie. 

The success of the Clouser lies in its simple yet lifelike design. The weighted dumbbell eyes create a jigging action as the fly moves through the water, mimicking the natural darting motion of any baitfish in the salt. The bucktail fibers create a subtle fluttering movement that has been driving fish wild for decades.

This action, combined with its sleek, streamlined profile, triggers predatory instincts in tarpon, snook, redfish- you name it. The fly also rides hook-point up, reducing snags and allowing it to be fished near the bottom without hooking into any subsurface debris. 

Tying the Clouser Minnow

From a fly-tying perspective, the Clouser Minnow is wonderfully straightforward to create, making it an excellent choice for beginners. With just a few materials—dumbbell eyes, bucktail, thread, and some flash—you can produce a fly that catches fish in any condition.

I love tying Clousers. You can really fill up your box quickly with this effective pattern in any variety of colors and weights. Or, you can quickly tie a bunch of your favorites and never be left empty handed out on the water. 

The tying process is simple, requiring basic techniques like securing materials and wrapping thread. Its minimalist approach not only makes it quick to tie and highly customizable. This ease of construction, combined with its proven fish-catching effectiveness, makes the Clouser Minnow a go-to pattern for anglers looking to stock their fly box with confidence. 

Clouser Minnow Recipe

Hook: Size 4-8 streamer hook

Thread: White or chartreuse

Eyes: Dumbbell eyes (size appropriate for your hook)

Body: Bucktail (white for the belly, chartreuse or olive for the back)

Flash: Pearl Krystal Flash

Tying Steps for the Clouser Minnow

1. Attach the thread and secure the dumbbell eyes near the hook’s eye.
2. Tie in a small bundle of white bucktail below the hook (belly).
   1. Wrap it all along the hook chank. 
3. Add a few strands of Krystal Flash on top.
4. Finish with chartreuse or olive bucktail on top. Whip finish and cement

Extra Tips for the Clouser Minnow

• The color combinations are endless for Clousers- just keep in mind that if using two colors, the lighter shade is generally used on the bottom to mimic the natural patterning of baitfish.
  • Baitfish usually have white/yellow/some lighter shade bellies, so our flies should be the same.
• Feel free to sub-out bucktail for Craft Fur. If you’re looking for a more flowing, undulating action to your Clouser, Craft Fur is a great substitute.
  • Along those lines, any long fibers can be used as Clouser bodies. Use whatever you have on hand! 

Gotcha

The Gotcha is a simple, highly effective saltwater fly, most famous for its success in catching bonefish. Many other saltwater swimmers will eat it, but it is mainly used for bones. 

It was originally created in the Bahamas by Jim McVay, who reportedly tied the first version using items from a car upholstery shop. The name “Gotcha” is said to come from McVay’s exclamation to his fishing partner after hooking his first bonefish with the fly: “Gotcha!”

Is the Gotcha a shrimp or a crab? Probably both! The pattern imitates shrimp or small crustaceans, which are a primary food source for bonefish. Its fluttering movement and subtle sparkle make it a go-to choice for saltwater anglers. The Gotcha is especially effective in shallow flats, where bonefish are actively feeding.

Tying the Gotcha

Tying the Gotcha is straightforward and beginner-friendly, though experienced tiers often make adjustments to suit specific conditions. The fly’s main components include a translucent body, flashy materials, and bead chain or dumbbell eyes to achieve the right weight and movement. 

The design is simple enough to be tied quickly, which is important for anglers heading to remote fishing destinations.

Gotcha Fly Recipe

Hook: Saltwater hook, sizes 4 to 8

Thread: Pink or white

Eyes: Bead chain or small dumbbell eyes, silver or gold

Tail: Pearl or pink Mylar tubing or flashy material

Body: Pearl or pink Sparkle Braid

Wing: Tan or white craft fur, arctic fox or synthetic material, often with Krystal Flash

Optional: UV resin or head cement for added durability

Tying Steps for the Gotcha

1. Attach the Thread: Start the thread behind the hook eye and create a smooth base along the shank. Secure the bead chain or dumbbell eyes at the front of the hook.
2. Tie the Tail: Attach a short bunch of Mylar tubing or flashy material at the bend of the hook. Keep the tail sparse to create a more natural appearance.
   1. Use your bobbin to pick out any trapped material from the Mylar tubing
3. Wrap the Body: Secure a piece of Sparkle Braid at the base of the tail and wrap it forward to cover the shank. Tie it off behind the eyes.
4. Add the Wing: Tie in a sparse bunch of tan or pink craft fur on top of the hook, just behind the eyes.
   1. The wing should extend slightly beyond the tail. 
   2. For added flash, include a few strands of Krystal Flash.
5. Finish the Fly: Build a small thread head behind the hook eye, whip finish, and secure with head cement or UV resin for durability.

Extra Tips for the Gotcha

• I like to tie my Gotchas with Artic Fox, especially when tying smaller sizes.
  • The Artic Fox hair has a little bit shorter fibers, which I think look better than longer, flowing Craft Fur on smaller flies.
• Don’t be afraid to add little or even no weight to your Gotchas. You’ll likely be fishing these in very skinny water, and heavy dumbbell eyes can easily spook wary bones away. 
• From experience, natural colors work the best. Aggressive colors can work, but more often than not, neutral colors are extremely effective. 
• Guides in Mexico and Belize tend to favor smaller Gotchas (size 8 and maybe size 6) while larger Gotchas (size 4 or even 2) are more favorable in the Bahamas where larger bonefish are looking for a bigger meal. 

Tarpon Bunny

Tying the Tarpon Bunny

Tying the Tarpon Bunny is straightforward, making it an excellent fly for anglers who want a durable, effective fly using only simple materials.

The fly’s main feature is its rabbit-strip tail, which provides lifelike motion and appeal. The design incorporates weighted or bead chain eyes, ensuring the fly swims at the correct depth.

Tarpon Bunny Recipe

Hook: Saltwater hook, sizes 1/0 to 4/0

Thread: Black, white, or bright color

Eyes: Lead dumbbell or bead chain eyes (adjust weight based on fishing conditions)

Tail: Rabbit zonker strip, usually in black, purple, tan, or white. Additional flash if desired

Collar: Rabbit zonker strip, matching or complementary to the tail color.

• Can also add a piece of contrasting Schlappen to the head of the fly

Head: Thread wraps finished with head cement or UV resin

Tying Steps for the Tarpon Bunny

1. Start the Thread: Begin by wrapping a smooth thread base along the hook shank. Attach the dumbbell eyes about a third of the way down the hook shank using figure-eight wraps, ensuring they are secure.
2. Attach the Tail: Tie in a rabbit zonker strip at the bend of the hook. The tail should be about 1.5 to 2 times the length of the hook shank. Leave the strip’s natural fur facing upward for lifelike movement.
   1. Add Flash (Optional): Tie in a few strands of Flashabou or Krystal Flash on either side of the tail for extra sparkle. Trim the flash to match the length of the tail.
3. Wrap the Collar: Tie in a rabbit strip at the base of the tail, with the fur facing backward. Wrap the strip forward around the hook shank in touching turns, creating a dense, flowing collar. Stop just behind the dumbbell eyes and secure the strip with thread.
   1. Wrap a piece of Schlappen to the end of the rabbit collar in a contrasting color for added variation. 
4. Finish the Fly: Build a small thread head in front of the eyes, whip finish, and apply head cement or UV resin to ensure durability.

Extra Tips for the Tarpon Bunny

• Classic colors like white and chartreuse are very common in Tarpon Bunny patterns, but feel free to create any combination you’d like.
  • Black and Purple are go-to colors in Mexico, some guides swear by this!
• Get your Tarpon Bunny wet before casting. The rabbit fibers take a second to absorb water and if thrown completely dry, they won’t sink immediately or swim correctly.
  • I like to stick the fly in the water and squeeze it until it’s ready to cast. 
• Though it takes an extra step, you can add a thick piece of monofilament to the base of the tail to help prevent the fly from wrapping on the hook.
  • A section of UV resin can also prevent fouling and is a little easier than the monofilament method.

Raghead Crab

Tying the Raghead Crab

The Raghead Crab can be tied in various sizes and colors to match local crab species. The pattern is characterized by its bulky body, rubber legs, and a splayed, realistic crab-like appearance. 

Tying the Raghead Crab involves a pretty unique style of gluing materials to the shank and can be a little bit tricky to get the hang of it, though it is worth the effort in the end. 

Raghead Crab Recipe

Hook: Saltwater hook, sizes 2 to 6

Thread: Tan, brown, or olive

Eyes: Lead dumbbell or bead chain eyes (adjust weight based on fishing depth)

Body: Wool or McFly Foam

Legs: Rubber legs in a complementary color (e.g., barred or speckled)

Claws: Marabou head and short hackle feathers

Adhesive: UV resin or head cement for added durability

Tying Steps for the Raghead Crab

1. Start the Thread: Secure the thread onto the hook.
2. Attach Eyes: Tie in brass eyes using figure-eight wraps. Choose eye material (brass, lead, or tungsten) and size based on casting ability, water depth, and current.
3. Add Marabou Tail: Select a small clump of grizzly-dyed rusty orange marabou.
   1. Measure it to shank length and tie it in at the rear of the hook. Trim the excess along the body.
4. Add Flash: Tie in two strands of crystal flash on one side of the hook. Fold the strands over to secure them on the other side.
   1. Trim the flash slightly longer than the marabou tail.
5. Add Claws: Select two similar-sized feathers from your cape, ensuring their natural curves oppose each other.
   1. Tie one claw on each side of the hook, extending about twice the length of the marabou.
   2. Trim excess stems and smooth the tie-in area with thread.
6. Tie in Legs: Use three strands of barred rubber legs.
   1. Center the legs on the hook shank and secure them with a loose wrap in the middle. Adjust their position evenly.
   2. Separate the front and back legs by figure-eighting the thread between them. Pull the legs into position and secure them with tight wraps.
7. Prepare the Body: Take a small clump of brown McFly Foam, roughly 3/8″ wide. Stretch it to align the fibers perpendicularly across the hook shank.
   1. Apply a thin bead of contact cement to the thread wraps, then press the foam onto the shank.
8. Shape the Body: Add more foam layers, applying contact cement between each layer.
   1. Compress and shape the foam as the glue sets, forming a rounded crab body.
   2. Use a wet finger to smooth and shape the foam for a finished look.
9. Finalize the Fly:Ensure the body is symmetrical and well-shaped.
   1. Whip finish the thread behind the dumbbell eyes and trim.

Extra Tips for the Raghead Crab

• Stick with natural colors for your Raghead Crabs
  • Tan, white, olive seem to be the most effective
• The glueing of the McFly foam or wool can be tricky at first. My advice is to keep your glue to a minimum at first and add more as you start to get the materials secured to the hook.
• Crabs are often in deeper, rockier waters so it’s helpful to have heavier weights to help get down to the right depths. 

Conclusion

Tying your own saltwater flies doesn’t have to be complicated. With these easy-to-tie patterns, you can fill your fly box without stressing over intricate techniques or spending hours at the vise. Whether you’re targeting bonefish on the flats, snook in the mangroves, or redfish on the marsh, these simple flies will get the job done.

So grab your materials, spin up a few, and hit the water with confidence. There’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of catching fish on a fly you tied yourself. Keep it simple, keep it fun, and tight lines!